Urus, Ishinca, and Tocllaraju

Tour Overview

Climbing Program – Urus, Ishinca, and Tocllaraju

This comprehensive six-day expedition offers a progressive mountaineering experience through the heart of the Ishinca Valley, designed for those looking to conquer multiple Andean summits in a single journey. Starting from the village of Pashpa, the program establishes a strategic base camp at 4,350 meters, serving as the launchpad for the first two technical challenges: the rocky ridges of Urus Peak and the glacial slopes of Ishinca Peak. These initial ascents provide the perfect acclimatization and panoramic views of the Ranrapalca and Palcaraju massifs before moving to High Camp for the final objective. The adventure culminates in a demanding midnight push to the summit of Tocllaraju at 6,034 meters, navigating complex crevasse systems and a spectacular final ridge with slopes up to 65 degrees, offering a world-class climbing achievement before the final descent back to Huaraz.

Location Cordillera Blanca – Huascarán National Park

Start Point Huaraz

End Point Huaraz

Day by Day

Your Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz (3,100 m) – Pashpa – Ishinca Base Camp (4,350 m)

7:00 a.m.: Pickup in Huaraz and transfer by private transport to Pashpa (3,600 m) – approximately 1.5 hours.
8:30 a.m.: Start of the hike with muleteers and pack donkeys to the Ishinca Valley.
08:30 – 14:00 hrs: Approach trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4,350 m).

Duration

5–6 hours.

Elevation

+750 m

3:00 PM: Camp set up, dinner, and rest.

Day 2: Ascent to Urus Peak (5,420 m) – Base Camp

3:00 AM: Breakfast and departure.
4:00 AM – 8:00 AM: Ascent via rocky moraine and then a simple glacier to the summit of Urus Peak (5,420 m).
Slopes of 30–40°.
8:30 AM: Arrival at the summit.
9:00 AM – 12:00 PM: Descent to base camp.
Free afternoon: rest, hydrate, and acclimatize.

Day 3: Ascent to Ishinca Peak (5,530 m) – Base Camp

2:00 AM: Breakfast and preparation.
3:00 AM – 8:00 AM: Ascent to Ishinca Peak (5,530 m).
Glacier route with slopes of 30°–45°.
Possible crevasses and rope progression.
1:30 a.m.: Begin the ascent to the summit.

- - Glacier traverse with slopes of 45°–55°.
  - Passage of crevasses and seracs, possible use of ladders or securing with ice screws.
  - Final sections: slopes of 55°–60° on hard ice.

8:30 AM: Arrival at the summit, panoramic views of Ranrapalca, Tocllaraju, Palcaraju, and other peaks.
9:00 AM – 1:00 PM: Descent to Base Camp.

- - Free afternoon: rest and prepare gear for Tocllaraju.

Day 4: Base Camp – Tocllaraju High Camp (5,200 m)

8:00 AM: Breakfast and departure.
9:00 AM – 2:00 PM: Hike across the glacier and moraine to Tocllaraju High Camp (5,200 m).
Rope progression on the glacier.
3:00 PM: Set up camp, hydrate, and check technical equipment.
6:00 PM: Light dinner and early rest.

Day 5: Ascent to Tocllaraju (6,034 m) – High Camp – Base Camp

Midnight: Wake up, have a hearty breakfast.
1:00 AM: Start of ascent.

- - Glacier route with slopes of 40°–55°.
  - Crevasse crossing, use of ice screws and stakes.
  - Final section: ridge and wall with a 55°–65° slope, rope belay.

7:00 AM–9:00 AM: Arrival at the summit of Tocllaraju (6,034 m).
9:30 AM–2:00 PM: Rappelling and glacier progression to Campo Alto.
2:30 PM – 4:30 PM: Continue the descent to Base Camp (4,350 m).
6:00 PM: Dinner and well-deserved rest.

Day 6: Ishinca Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz