Alpamayo Climbing Program – 6 Days / 5 Nights
This prestigious six-day expedition takes climbers to the heart of the Santa Cruz Valley to face the iconic southwest face of Alpamayo, a peak world-renowned for its perfect pyramidal symmetry. The journey evolves from a scenic trek past the turquoise Jatuncocha Lake to a high-altitude challenge, establishing strategic camps at the moraine and high glacier levels to ensure peak performance. The expedition reaches its thrilling climax with a midnight ascent of the technical Ferrari Route, where climbers navigate sustained 75-degree ice slopes and intricate protection systems to stand atop the 5,947-meter summit. This is a definitive high-alpine experience that combines rigorous physical demand with the unparalleled reward of conquering one of the most aesthetic and legendary vertical walls in the Peruvian Andes.
Your Itinerary
Day 1: Huaraz (3,100 m) – Cashapampa – Llamacorral Camp (3,760 m)
- 07:00 AM– Pick-up from your hotel in Huaraz and private transfer to Cashapampa (2,900 m).
Drive time: approximately 3 hours. - 09:30 AM– Begin the trekking approach accompanied by muleteers and pack animals.
- 09:30 AM – 02:00 PM– Trek through the Santa Cruz Valley, following the river until reaching Llamacorral Camp (3,760 m).
Hiking time
4 – 5 hours.
Elevation
+860 m
03:00 PM – Camp setup, dinner, and overnight stay.
Day 2: Llamacorral – Jatuncocha Lake – Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m)
- 07:00 AM– Breakfast.
- 07:30 AM – 01:00 PM– Trek through the valley, passing the beautiful Jatuncocha Lake, until reaching Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m).
Hiking time
5 – 6 hours.
Elevation
+540 m
- 02:00 PM– Base camp setup.
- 03:30 PM– Short acclimatization hike in the surrounding area.
- 06:00 PM– Dinner and overnight at base camp.
Day 3: Base Camp (4,300 m) – Moraine Camp (4,900 m)
- 07:00 AM– Breakfast and gear preparation.
- 08:00 AM – 12:00 PM– Ascent over rocky terrain to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).
- 01:00 PM– Camp setup on rock and ice terrain.
- 03:00 PM– Safety briefing and practice session covering essential ice climbing techniques:
- Ice axe traction techniques
- Rope safety and protection systems
- Rappelling practice
06:00 PM – Dinner and overnight rest.
Day 4: Moraine Camp – High Camp I (5,400 m)
- 05:00 AM– Breakfast and departure with technical equipment.
- 06:00 AM – 12:00 PM– Glacier ascent to High Camp I (5,400 m), located below Alpamayo’s southwest face.
Activities include:
- Rope team glacier travel over crevasses
- Snow camp setup
- 01:00 PM– Light lunch and rest.
- 03:00 PM– Final equipment check for summit push.
- 06:00 PM– Early dinner and rest.
Day 5: High Camp I – Alpamayo Summit (5,947 m) – High Camp I
- 12:00 AM– Wake-up call, energy breakfast, and preparation of technical gear.
- 01:00 AM– Start the summit climb via the Ferrari Route (Southwest Face).
Key climbing features:
- Sustained 60°–75° ice slopes
- Fixed rope progression using ice screw protection
- 07:00 – 09:00 AM– Arrival at the summit of Alpamayo (5,947 m), widely considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
- 09:30 AM – 01:00 PM– Technical descent with rappels back to High Camp I (5,400 m).
- 03:00 PM– Rest, hydration, and dinner.
Day 6: High Camp I – Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz
- 06:00 AM– Breakfast and camp dismantling.
- 07:00 AM – 10:00 AM– Descent to Base Camp (4,300 m).
- 10:30 AM – 03:00 PM– Trek back to Cashapampa (muleteers and pack animals assist with transporting gear).
- 03:30 PM– Private transfer back to Huaraz.
- 07:00 PM– Arrival in Huaraz.
Our Services
Included
- UIAGM-certified high-mountain guide
- Private transportationHuaraz – Cashapampa – Huaraz
- All meals during the expedition
- High-altitude camping equipment(tents, sleeping mats, kitchen gear)
- Group technical equipment(ropes, snow stakes, ice screws)
- Muleteers and pack animalsfor gear transport to Base Camp
- First aid kit
Not Included
- Personal technical gear (crampons, technical ice axe, harness, helmet, double boots)
- Sleeping bag rated to -20°C
- Huascarán National Park entrance fee
- Tips and personal expenses
Recommendations
- Proper acclimatization is highly recommended: 3–4 days of trekking above 4,500 m, plus climbing a 2–3 day acclimatization peak
- Participants should be in excellent physical condition.
- Bring UV protection sunglasses, gloves, water, and high-SPF sunscreen.
