Chopicalqui Peak (4 days / 3 nights)

Conquer the majestic Chopicalqui (6,354 m) on this technical 4-day expedition from Huaraz. Experience high-altitude glacier climbing with spectacular views of Huascarán and the Cordillera Blanca.
max altitude
6,354 m
above sea level
duration
4 Days
3 Nights
Season
May to September
Best climbing season
level
Demanding
(requires altitude experience and advanced glacier techniques)
Tour Overview

Climbing Program – Chopicalqui Peak (4 days / 3 nights)

This elite four-day expedition offers a deep immersion into the technical heart of the Cordillera Blanca, focusing on the demanding ascent of the “East Peak” of the Huascarán massif. Starting from the Llanganuco Gorge, the journey progresses through a strategically positioned Base Camp and a challenging Moraine Camp to reach High Camp I at 5,400 meters, where climbers prepare for a midnight summit push across complex glacial systems, crevasses, and steep ice slopes of up to 60 degrees. Reaching the 6,354-meter summit rewards participants with an unparalleled perspective of the Andes—including a front-row view of the massive Huascarán, Huandoy, and Chacraraju—before executing a technical descent with rappels to conclude one of the most prestigious and visually stunning climbs in Peru.

Location Cordillera Blanca – Huascarán National Park
Start Point Huaraz
End Point Huaraz
Day by Day

Your Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz (3,100 m) – Base Camp (4,350 m)
  1. 7:00 a.m.: Pickup in Huaraz and transfer by private transport to Llanganuco Gorge (approximately 3 hours).
  2. 11:00 a.m.: Arrival to base camp (4,350 m). Lunh and safety briefing and practice.
  3. 4:30 PM: Light acclimatization hike.
  4. 6:00 PM: Dinner and overnight stay at camp.
  1. 7:00 AM: Breakfast and gear preparation.
  2. 8:00 AM – 11:00 AM: Ascent via a rocky trail to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).
  3. 11:30 AM – 3:00 PM: Technical ascent to High Camp I (5,400 m), setting up camp on snow/ice.
      • Use crampons and ice axes.
      • Rope progression on glaciated sections.
  1. 4:00 PM: Camp setup, hydration, and rest.
  2. 6:00 PM: Light dinner and technical briefing on the summit route.
  1. 12:30 a.m.: Wake up, have a hearty breakfast, and prepare your technical equipment.

  2. 1:30 a.m.: Begin the ascent to the summit.

      • Glacier traverse with slopes of 45°–55°.

      • Passage of crevasses and seracs, possible use of ladders or securing with ice screws.

      • Final sections: slopes of 55°–60° on hard ice.

  1. 7:00–9:00 AM: Arrival at the summit of Chopicalqui (6,354 m). Time for photos and landscape viewing (Huascarán, Huandoy, Chacraraju, Alpamayo).

  2. 9:30–1:00 PM: Technical descent with rappels and return to High Camp I (5,400 m).

  3. 3:00 PM: Hydration, lunch, and rest at camp.

  4. 6:00 PM: Dinner and overnight.

  1. 7:00 AM: Breakfast and camp breakdown.
  2. 8:00–12:00 PM: Descent to Base Camp (4,350 m).
  3. 12:30 PM: Light lunch at base camp.
  4. 13:30 PM: Transfer by private transport to Huaraz.
  5. 4:00 PM: Approximate arrival in Huaraz.
What's Covered

Our Services

Included

  • Specialized high-mountain guide
  • Private transportation from Huaraz to base camp- to Huaraz
  • All meals in the mountains
  • Camping equipment (high-mountain tents, sleeping mats, cooking utensils)
  • Group technical equipment (ropes, stakes, ice screws)
  • First aid kit

Not Included

  • Personal technical equipment (crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, double boots)
  • Sleeping bag (-15°C)
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park

Recommendations

  • It is recommended to be well acclimatized, having at least climbed Mount Pisco before.
  • Be in good physical condition
  • Bring gloves, sunscreen, sunglasses with UV protection, and water
  • Respect company policy and the PNH environmental protocols.
Journey Highlights

Photo Gallery

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